A long, elegant room with a dusty pink banquette along one wall leads directly to the bright, mirror-backed bar at Stem, where wines are served by the glass, yes, but better yet in carefully composed flights of four two-ounce glasses. (Outside, the white-canopied seating area on N Mississippi is prime people-watching real estate, BTW.) Choose your flight by color, region, or skin contact, or just let the knowledgeable staff compose one for you—the resulting pours could take you from a Greek rkatsiteli to an Oregon piquette.